South Africa's First and Only 2-stroke Forum

Well guys this is a mod I wanted to do long time ago, but due to the lack of time it just never happened... Got the calipers of a 06 YFZ450 from ebay last year October..

Here is a pic to show the difference in the size of the 2 calipers, the banshee has a single pot and the YFZ has a twin pod caliper, obviously bigger break pads with bigger contact to the disc..




Ok I still use the back plates to prevent rocks from going into my wheels so I modded them for the bigger caliper, this is the ONLY mod you have to do to fit these, otherwise it is a direct bolt on and the brake pads touch the disc all the way to the max...




This is the stock banshee caliper with back plate...




Ok while the hubs are off its also a good thing to inspect the bearings, axle and seals... My bearings were good but the axle had some rust, I could almost not remove the right hub from the axle... This indicates that the seals were letting water through, but these are not old seals and I know that I had to cross the orange river a few times, so the bike might have got a little water....




I clean the rust off with a die grinder and steel brush...




Also make sure the axle is clean and the parts where the seals "run"..



Its is a good thing to grease the axle with a light coat of grease, it will help prevent it from rust if water may enter...




It is also a MUST to clean and grease the seals inner part if re-using them, even new seals should be grease with good quality grease, it lubricates the seals and also help to keep water out... I grease all my seals, on the motor, some seals come with grease, some don't, APPLY THEM!!





Fitting the hub back on, apply some copper grease to the threads... This is a must have, and I use it on all my engine bolts and stud, its a anti seize and rust compound, your threads will last longer...




Here is the new caliper fitted with the modded back plate.. yes the rust was remove from it all...lol




Here she is, fitted with the new calipers..




Here is the end product fitted with braded brake lines, starting with the bleeding process, which is really easy, don't know why some struggle and I do it without fancy tools!!!!!!!




Bleeding the brakes...
1.After all the brake lines has been tighten up, fill the brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid... (remember brakefluid removes paint easily, so where it gets in contact with, wash immediately with water)
2.Open BOTH the caliper bleed holes about 2 turns out..
3.Start just sit in front of the quad without drinking beer LOL and wait till you see some fluid running out of the calipers... If nothing happens just pump the brake lever e few times and wait again... It will eventually start coming out....
4. When the brake fluid starts to come out of the bleeding holes, close the holes on both calipers and refill the reservoir..
5. NB!!! It is very important that you keep your eye on the reservoir at all times while bleeding the air out of the calipers, if you're gonne run out of fluid, you will have MORE air entering the system...
6. just start to open up each caliper's bleeding hole half a turn, for a few seconds, repeat this while keep filling the reservoir until you see there is not a lot of bubbles coming out.... This take some time, but is far from difficult... If there is just small bubbles, tighten the blleding screws and start pumping the brake even if it is hard just pump them, take a screw drivers's end and twinkle the brake lines a bit to get some bubble that are stuck moving...
7. Now repeat the whole process again by opening up the bleeding screws and more air will start to come out... While you keep pressure on the brake lever open the bleeding screw just a little, not to much, otherwise you will be full of fluid, when the fluid starts pouring out FIRST close the screw BEFORE releasing the lever, REPEAT this process untill you are confident there is no more air coming out... There should be NO air bubbles at all!!!
8. If there is no more air coming out, take it for a ride and see that both wheels lock at the same time and that you do not have to apply MORE pressure then normal before the bike starts to break, if so there is still air in the system, the smallest air pocket will influence your brakes so it is very important that you get all the air out for a good braking system...
9. Even if you feel you are happy, go back and just open up the bleeding screws again so that the brake fluid will run out by itself, it almost "bleed" it self and by just keep filling the reservoir you will see if there is still air bubbles in the system. If you are satisfied, and think its clean, do it again after you has rode the bike and used the breaks, you will see there is always a bubble or 2 coming out... Make sure its clean of any air...
10. Like said, its not difficult, just time consuming!!!
11. In some cases the brake pads just need to "wear in" before the breaks get to its full potensial...

I hope some of you may understand what I tried to explain there^^^^

This is by far one of the best mods I have done, by just pressing the breaks as hard as I was used to to stop a banshee, she locks the front end up and wants to throw me over the handle bars... I also want to fit a YFZ brake booster..!!!!!!!!!!!!

i jus fitted yfz hubs in this week, thnx for the bleeding the brake info, have had issues with it in the past

jus need something on how to replace balljoints now LOL

(05-29-2009 12:05 PM)Goigen Wrote: [ -> ]i jus fitted yfz hubs in this week, thnx for the bleeding the brake info, have had issues with it in the past

jus need something on how to replace balljoints now LOL

Fix the ball joints by just buying a tool... Works lika a bomb good as NEW!!

Good tutorial BVH...Some interesting reading!

(05-29-2009 12:07 PM)BVH Developments Wrote: [ -> ]Fix the ball joints by just buying a tool... Works lika a bomb good as NEW!!

tool? part number? diagram? help asb!

(05-29-2009 12:45 PM)Goigen Wrote: [ -> ]

(05-29-2009 12:07 PM)BVH Developments Wrote: [ -> ]Fix the ball joints by just buying a tool... Works lika a bomb good as NEW!!

tool? part number? diagram? help asb!

You buy a tool... It attach to a blow torch, you put teflon stick in there, the blow torch melts it and it has a compression function that force the teflon into the joint... They say it better then new... LOL
No joking, it works and is as good as new... You have to drill a hole underneath the ball joint which you can screw a grease nipple in afterwords...

Here is a oom that has one of these and he will repair my old HD ball joints..
He repairs Big Lorrie trucks joints for R300 (off cause it cost him only a few teflon stick and few minutes of labour) Some of these trucks has ball joints that cost R6000 from Volvo etc..

i seen something like that before...... will see what i can find here

thnaks

Great info. Thanks BVH

Excellent post.

Well, finally got around to doing my YFZ caliper conversion. Works great and is so easy to do. HUGE improvement over stock!